Oh, Grandpa! Redux

Image c/o Hypebeast

In response to a post from two weeks ago, it’s clear that respecting your elders is hip, and I couldn’t be happier. In SoHo yesterday, I noticed American Rock Icon, Lou Reed, in ads for Supreme, and I came home to a J. Crew catalogue dripping with a resplendent Max Blagg, English-born writer and performer, who recently penned a book for them, What a Man Should Know. Grandpa’s back, and he’s cooler than ever.

Images c/o J. Crew

Gitman Bros. Showroom

Last night, I visited the Gitman Bros. showroom in midtown Manhattan. Master shirtmakers of Ashland, Pennsylvania, they produce goods for brands as different as Thom Browne and Apolis Activism. Mr. Chris Olberding, their VP of sales, was kind enough to let me have a look at his company’s vintage line.

“I think of it like denim. You can find different washes and weights of denim,” he said of this thick drill-weight cotton. Heavier than it looks, this shirt will wear well for years.

Dusting off swatch cards from the early 80s he found at the factory, Chris is reproducing shirts in patterns and fabrics unlike anything else available today. It’s hard to stress how literally I mean that. See how the “Grey Plaid” swatch in the photo corresponds with the shirt below. Being the fan of plaid that I am, I was swollen with excitement as I flipped through two of the  inch-thick books of swatches. Notice how nicely the yellow in the plaid above aligns itself around the collar’s buttons, a sign of a well-made shirt. As I examined this paisley, we both chuckled and, at virtually the same time, fondly reminisced about the similar shirts we sported as kids. A bold print, the forest green really pops when examined close-up.

I am really looking forward to owning their plaid, knee-length pajama top. As I understand it, they’re using a pattern from deep within their archives. It’s reminiscent of a shirt Jeff Bridges wore in The Door in the Floor, but with more structure – namely buttons and a collar.

Like Mr. Bridges, Gitman is a true original.

Special thanks to Mr. Mordechai Rubinstein for all his beautiful photos.

Secret Forts

“This collection of things is me. And this is my secret fort.” – JamesIf Steve Zissou’s crew took over filming for History Channel’s Ax Men, James from Secret Forts would be their foreman. Last night, I had the distinguished pleasure of meeting the man and the woman behind him, and could not help but marvel at his get-up. With his bushy beard, red cap au Zissou, large-framed pair of Lemtosh, heavy navy shawl collar cardigan, Engineered Garments Chambray, garment dyed jeans, a pair of Desert Boots, and a well-worn Filson Tin Cloth, another onlooker said it best, “you look like your blog.” And a smart-looking blog it is.

Wild Man

Foster Huntington of A Restless Transplant posted some excellent photos of Harry McCotty, stone foreman, wood splitter, Vermonter, and apparent fan of plaid.

The Brothers Parton & Apolis Activism

Saturday, at the Rendez-Vous tradeshow, I met Raan and Shea Parton, two of the brains behind brilliant menswear line, Apolis Activism. Alongside their brother Stenn, these Southern California boys founded a company whose ethics are as sturdy as its garment construction. Taking a page from the book Let My People Go Surfing, they’ve developed a brand whose name and mission stand for more than just the latest trend.

In classical literature, apolis means “citiless” or “without city.” They’ve taken it to mean a citizen of no country. Developing their mission, as Shea tells it, “We began thinking about the obvious communality of people across the world wearing clothes, and jokingly caught ourselves saying, ‘Humanity has a common thread.’ Before we knew it, a phrase lead us to believe that humanity — not flags or borders — is the common thread that binds us.” (EBR)

Working with charitable organizations like Invisible Children and CITTA, Apolis is devoted to sourcing materials from developing nations — cashmere from a women’s cooperative in Nepal, cotton canvas from Uganda — while waxwear, nylon board shorts, and shirting are sourced right here in the USA. As their trademark, they’ve chosen the symbol of the red cross. You’ll find it embroidered on everything from Nepalese cashmere hats and sweaters to waxwear jackets produced in New York state, from nylon board shorts made by classic SoCal surfwear company Katin, to briefcases made with Ugandan canvas but assembled by Seattle-based purveyor of outdoor gear Filson.

With the passing of each season, these guys continue to prove that ethically made clothes profit everyone.

All images c/o Apolis Activism.

Caveland

A family in Festus, Missouri built their home inside a cave, and for $300,000, it can be yours! It sits on acreage that was once used as a concert venue and roller rink. Imagine sleeping on the stage where Tina Turner shook her tailfeather, Ted Nugent shook his raccoon tail, and The MC5 shook just about everything else.

Leblogski

This is what happens, Larry. This is what happens when you find a stranger in the alps.

Announcing the commencement of the one blog I might call religion. Assuming its creators aren’t overcome with apathy, Leblogski, launched by the brains behind Lebowskifest, will be the place for all things Dude. If, like me, you regularly rock Pendleton’s cowichan sweaters, Vuarnets, and jellies (that and a pair of testicles), check it out. It’s a good blog… and thorough.

Longwing & Bubble Gum

Traditional fellow, Longwing endorsed all plaidout recently, and I couldn’t be more thrilled!

Of his most recent posts, I was particularly impressed with his inclusion of bubble gum pink; much like Go to Hell Pants, it’s standard in an Ivy League wardrobe.

This jacket would look great on a bike!

Any time someone gives me hell for my Bazooka Joe Shetland, I direct them to Mr. Tim Matheson in 1978’s Animal House; “You still wanna show me your cucumber?”Keep hammerin’ out the hits, Longwing!

A Watch-finding Service

Thanks to SL for the alert. The wristwatch fanatics at Hodinkee offer a watch-finding service. After answering a few simple questions, they wrote back within a few days with four watches that matched my search criteria.

Their questions and my answers follow:

Are you looking for something vintage or new? Vintage.

Sporty or Dressy? Sporty.

Leather Strap or Metal? Leather.

Chronograph? Yes.

Moonphase? No.

Any particular brands you’re interested in? I have loved the Max Bill for quite some time.

Any particular brands you know you AREN’T interested in? No.

Maximum price? The least expensive watch you can find.

As suspected, they disregarded the last question. That said, the watches selected were tailor-made to eventually, one day, when money is of no concern, be mine.

Those who know me well know of my deep-seated fondness for the Fisher Space Pen, and what better watch to go with a pen designed for space than the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute, as worn by Commander Scott Carpenter in May of 1962 during his five hour orbit. This was the second watch ever worn in space. Retails for $5,850.00.The second watch selected by the honchos at Hodinkee, a chrono version of the Omega Seamaster nearly brought a tear to my eye.

In my junior year of college, I read about the Speedmaster’s storied past, and began researching the history of Omega watches. I learned that as Bond, Pierce Brosnan wore a Seamaster. Of course, at an estate sale that spring, I stumbled across a rusty old Seamaster in dire need of repair. I offered the seller $50 for it, and was off! A week later, the building where I lived caught fire, and in the hectic move that followed, I misplaced the watch – among other things. The one pictured retailed for more than $2500. The five and the oh I mentioned before. Yeah, they still sting.With its rose gold pointers and sweep seconds hand, the chrono from Angelus, now defunct Swiss watchmaker best known for their Chronodato model, looks the every bit the part of an antique. It’s a watch awaiting a sepia-toned photograph. I wouldn’t be surprised if I found myself at Steve Kivel’s shop buying an ostrich grain strap sometime soon.

The thing I love most about the watches selected by Team Hodinkee, each seems to evoke a story, if not of its own making then one I conjure up examining the thing. The 60s-era Breguet XX Flyback Chronograph provides both. I love this watch, the look, the function, the apparent heft, the cutout 3 & 4, everything. A favorite of Napoleon and Marie Antoinette, Breguet’s history is as illustrious as its wares. “Louis Breguet, the great-great grandson of original Breguet (the watch brand’s namesake), was considered the most innovative engineer of his day, creating the infamous Breguet XIX plane, which made history in 1922 as the first plane to make it non-stop from Paris to New York.  In 1907, he designed and built a gyroplane with flexible wings that was capable of vertical flight, and is considered the forerunner to the helicopter.  He later went on to form a little airline called Air France.” Nuff said. It was apparently priced to move, but the fellows at Hodinkee tell me, it’s very expensive.

My only gripe, obviously, is I don’t make enough money to invest in a wristwatch of this stature. One day, when I’m able to, I will look back on this post and laugh at my youthful, plebeian taste.

Next, I’ll post some nice-looking watches we commoners can afford.

Until then, I’m all plaidout.

Congratulations to Janie Bryant!

Image c/o Zimbio

Congratulations to Janie Bryant, winner of the 2009 Costume Designers Guild Award for Outstanding Design for a Period/Fantasy TV Series. For more on the awards, visit Reuters.

In honor of her win, all plaidout presents Janie’s thoughts on formal wear.

A real man owns his own tuxedo.

Single button, peak lapel is my favorite.

I love the shawl collar and the dinner jacket as well, but I’m on the outs with the two or the three button. I don’t like the notch lapel. It’s too business-y.

Cast images c/o AMC.